Cambodia travel reveal the land full of Ancient temples, azure beaches, mighty rivers, remote forests, and, outside Angkor Wat only a handful of tourists. But the word is out – Cambodia has emerged from the decades of war and isolation that made it a byword for atrocities and poverty instability. Those magical Angkor temples are drawing gaping travellers by the busload once more, and Cambodia is well and truly a gem and not to be missed on the South-East Asian travel map.

Map of Cambodia

Cambodia is bounded on the west by Thailand, on the north by Laos, on the east by Vietnam and to the south by the Gulf of Thailand. It’s about half the size of Vietnam or Italy. Topographically, the country is dominated by the mighty Mekong River, which cuts a swathe through the country from north to south; the fish-filled Tonlé Sap (Great Lake); the Elephant and Cardamom mountains in the southwest; the Dangkrek Mountains along the Thai border; and the Eastern Highlands in the northeast. Most Cambodians live on the fertile central plains of the Mekong-Tonlé basin.

What to Pack for Traveling Cambodia

Clothing

Drip dry, light clothes are recommended for your Cambodia holiday. The laundry service in most hotels is overnight and inexpensive. The dress code throughout the tour is casual and comfortable. When visiting the Royal Palace, it is suggested that all members wear long trousers (or shorts below the knee for men) and a collared shirt/blouse with sleeves as a sign of respect, your footwear will also need to be removed upon entry. Cotton is the most comfortable material in these climatic conditions. Please refer to the ‘Suggested Clothes Packing List’ enclosed with your full payment documentation for further details.

Travel insurance & medications

As a condition of travel you must take out travel insurance for traveling in Cambodia to cover you against any situations that may arise. A Health Certificate is not required when traveling to Cambodia. Please consult your doctor or contact the Travellers Medical and Vaccination Centre in your capital city for your vaccination requirements.

There is no mandatory vaccine to travel to Cambodia, except for citizens who come from countries with risk of yellow fever, but it is recommended to be vaccinated against tetanus, Japanese encephalitis, hepatitis A and B and rabies, although the best recommendations would be to consult at your nearest International Vaccination Center before leaving to Cambodia. It is also a zone of malaria and dengue, especially in the area of ​​the border with Thailand and in the Northern regions, so it would be advisable to take antimalarial tablets, and take all kinds of precautions against mosquitoes (repellents, pants and t-shirts long sleeve, especially at sunrise and sunset, mosquito nets, etc.)

There is also a risk of contracting schitosomiasis, caused by contact with larvae that live in polluted freshwater, specifically in the Mekong River. Due to poultry fever, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs recommends staying away from bird markets, nature reserves with birds and farms. It is important to drink a lot of water, since there are usually many cases of dehydration among tourists, as well as always drink bottled water, and peeled or cooked food. We should not be surprised if we see any security measures that we are not accustomed to, since all travelers arriving in the country must go through a thermal scanner in order to check that there is no problem of swine flu. In fact, those with fever or flu symptoms may be rejected at the border. For the rest, be prepared with analgesics, antihistamines if you have any type of allergy, and medications for stomach problems.

What to eat in Cambodia

In general, Khmer cuisine is similar to Thai, but with fewer spices. A Cambodian meal almost always includes a soup, which is eaten with the other courses. Fish is the nation’s mainstay, and grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular speciality. ‘Salad’ dishes are flavoured with coriander, mint and lemon grass – three flavours which find their way into many Cambodian dishes. The French influence is seen in the bread, baked turtles and frogs legs which are sold in the markets. Sweet dishes include sticky rice cakes and jackfruit pudding. The most popular local drink is soda water with a squeeze of lemon.

We strongly recommend that you do not drink the tap water nor take ice with your drinks. In most hotels complementary water, which is suitable for drinking and cleaning your teeth, is provided. Fridges amongst the local populace are not common with the ‘Ice Man’ the main source for every ones refrigeration/cooling. Keep an eye out for them on the main streets.

Temples of Angkor

Siem Reap

Once a small market town and now the gateway to the temples of Angkor, Siem Reap has undergone a tremendous period of growth. The town has a plethora of hotels and an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars, but you do not have to venture far to find a more authentic Cambodian presence in the stalls of the fascinating local market or in and among the surrounding villages. For those prone to temple fatigue there are a number of exciting activities in the vicinity such as cycling trips, horse riding and quad biking, as well as cooking classes, which introduce the flavours and delicacies of traditional Khmer cuisine.

Tonle Sap Lake

Despite being Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, Tonle Sap, which is part of a unique river system, manages to drain almost completely into the Mekong in the dry season and then backs up to form an enormous body of water in the wet season. The local inhabitants cope with the huge rise and drop in water levels by building floating and stilted villages, the largest of which has a population of about 10,000 people, most of whom make a living from fishing. A boat trip to the villages reveals communities dwelling in an aquatic world, where you can stop off to visit a house and learn a little more about local life or share lunch with the family. Preak Toal biosphere is located on Tonle Sap Lake and is one of the premier birdwatching destinations in Southeast Asia, home to some rare waterbirds such as the greater and lesser adjutant, white-shouldered ibis, painted stork and oriental darter. For real enthusiasts we can organise an overnight stay at a local ranger’s station to ensure you are there for sunset and sunrise when activity is at its peak.

Phnom Penh

Battambang

Officially Cambodia’s second city, Battambang retains the character of a market town and shows little desire to enter the 20th century, let alone the 21st. Situated on the Sangker River at the centre of a fertile plain, it is one of the most laid-back towns in Indochina. Its dusty streets are lined with faded colonial buildings and it is well worth exploring by cyclo with a well-narrated audio guide that explains the history of Battambang. Nearby attractions include the hilltop Angkorian temples of Wat Banan and Wat Phnom Sampeau, the latter of which was a killing site of the Khmer Rouge. If you plan to attend a performance of the Phare Circus in Siem Reap, we also recommend a visit to the original circus school in Battambang where it is possible to see the troupe in training.

South coast

Cambodia’s relatively undeveloped south coast offers beaches, idyllic islands, national parks, ancient cave temples and sleepy colonial-era towns. It is also home to some of the country’s tastiest dishes with Cambodians travelling here for the delicious crab in particular, delicately flavoured with home-grown black pepper. The border with neighbouring Thailand is within easy reach, as is Vietnam, which presents a convenient link for combining Cambodia’s south coast and Vietnam’s Mekong Delta.

Sihanoukville

Named after the former king, Sihanoukville grew up around the country’s only deep water port, built to end reliance on trade through Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. The town has always dominated the south coast and over the years it has seen its fair share of visitors attracted to its beaches. Parts of the town have now succumbed to the excesses of budget travel and the choice of quality accommodation here is limited. However, with direct flights to Sihanoukville available from Siem Reap, it is now possible to simply use it as an access point to the scenic islands and sleepy villages that are scattered along the coast.

Song Saa, Koh Rong

Two small and idyllic islands, known locally as Song Saa, Khmer for ‘The Sweethearts’, lie just 45 minutes’ boat ride off the coast of Sihanoukville. These two tiny islets in the unspoilt Koh Rong archipelago are linked by a footbridge, allowing visitors to walk from the luxury private resort on one island to the nature reserve on the other. The resort offers just 27 stunning villas, nine set right over the water, the others enjoying ocean or jungle views. Huge beds, oversized baths, private pools and hand-crafted furniture made from driftwood or salvaged materials give the villas an incredibly luxurious feel, yet one which is in keeping with its surroundings. This exclusive retreat is all-inclusive and offers unparalleled levels of comfort and style, making it the ultimate place in which to relax.

Koh Kong

The southwest province of Koh Kong is home to some of Cambodia’s most remarkable natural landscapes and habitats, including deserted islands and beaches, thundering waterfalls and mangrove-lined rivers, as well as the dense jungle of the Cardamom Mountains. Deemed the second-largest virgin rainforest in mainland Southeast Asia, the Cardamoms have remained ecologically intact thanks largely to their remoteness, and provide territory for at least 59 globally-threatened animal species.

A few days in the Koh Kong region provides an insight into Cambodia’s natural beauty, with opportunities to kayak amongst pristine mangrove forest, swim in waterfalls and visit remote fishing communities. Accessible from Phnom Penh and only a short distance from a straightforward border crossing with Thailand, a visit to this region is highly rewarding.

Kep

Just an hour or so along the scenic coast road from Sihanoukville, Kep was Cambodia’s first seaside resort, a stylish retreat founded by the French in 1908. Today its grand old villas and many fine examples of modernist architecture lie mostly abandoned giving the town a somnolent charm. Nearby islands such as Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) are popular for day trips and delicious local crab caught daily off the coast is a popular lunchtime treat that attracts crowds of Khmers. A stay in Kep can be combined with a visit to Kompong Trach, where you will find limestone karst formations riddled with a network of caves.

Kampot

Kampot is a quiet, riverside town with charming faded remnants of the French colonial era. The town is home to an atmospheric collection of period architecture, especially the area along Riverside Road and around the Old Market, where you can buy the famous Kampot black pepper. Rent a bicycle and explore the town and surrounding countryside or alternatively, relax at one of the charming riverside cafes and watch the world go slowly by.

Kratie

This small, bustling town on the banks of the Mekong is a popular stop for travellers heading to explore Cambodia’s northeast or travelling overland into Laos. Home to a small population of endangered Irrawaddy dolphins, conservationists are working hard to preserve their habitat. Fortunately for visitors, they are reasonably easy to spot, particularly during the dry season. It is worth spending a night in the area for a chance to immerse yourself in rural life and feel a part of the local communities that make their living from the mighty Mekong River.

Mondulkiri

The easternmost province of Mondulkiri is one of the least explored areas in Cambodia. Despite being the largest of Cambodia’s provinces, it has a population of only 50,000, most of whom are Bunong (Pnong) and Khmer. The journey from Phnom Penh is now along a good sealed road, but can still take up to seven hours. It is worth stopping at Skuon en route, a small town known as the home of deep-fried tarantula, a national delicacy. Mondulkiri’s hilly landscape is unique within Cambodia and scattered with minority villages, majestic waterfalls, areas of pine forest and picturesque vistas.

Sen Monorom

Nestled amongst rolling hills and lush forests lies Sen Monorom, the tiny provincial capital of Mondulkiri. Life here takes on an even slower pace than elsewhere in rural Cambodia and the small market in the centre of town is the hub of the community. Sen Monorom is an excellent base for exploring the region and although the accommodation options are basic, the experiences on offer make it well worthwhile. Mondulkiri is best known for encounters with elephants at the well-respected Elephant Valley Project. You can also visit the mighty Bou Sraa Waterfalls, the largest and most well-known in Cambodia, which are immortalised in songs known to every Cambodian. Mondulkiri is also a good place to visit ethnic minority villages, which differ from those in other provinces, and their unique architecture and communal lifestyle are fascinating. We recommend at least three nights in Sen Monorom to fully appreciate the hidden delights of the area.

Ratanakiri

In the far northeast of the country lies the province of Ratanakiri. During the 1960s this region was the base for the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot spent much of his time here. Rarely visited, this remote region is rich in natural beauty with rivers traversing lush forests and cascading occasionally into waterfalls. There are also minority tribes here who have had little contact with the wider world. Take a river journey up the Tonle San to Kachon village, home of the Tompuon people and their traditional cemeteries, complete with carved effigies and unique burial rituals. The stilted male and female huts found in Ratanakiri’s Kreung villages also provide a glimpse of the fascinating courting practices of the local people. Laotian and Chinese communities can also be found in the area along with many minority tribes, making the region a melting pot of cultures.

Ban Lung

As the provincial capital of Ratanakiri, Ban Lung makes an excellent base from which to explore the many areas of interest in the province. It has a feel of the ‘wild east’ about it, with dusty roads and just two main streets. The town can be reached by road in a day from the riverside town of Kratie, or by a longer bumpy road journey from Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh. For those travelling to or from Laos, the journey can be made by road across the border.

Elephant Valley Project

The Elephants Livelihood Initiative Environment (E.L.I.E.), with the support of Bunong villagers, rescues and treats domestic elephants which come from abusive backgrounds and have suffered illness or injury as a consequence. The Elephant Valley Project, an ecotourism initiative near Sen Monorom, has been set up to provide a truly unique experience for visitors. Emphasis is on observing the elephants in their natural environment as well as learning about the Bunong minority culture.

Boat

Cambodia’s 1900km of navigable waterways are a key element in the country’s transportation system, particularly given the state of many roads and the railways. North of Phnom Penh, the Mekong is easily navigable as far as Kratie, but there are no longer regular passenger services on these routes as the roads have taken all the business. There are fast-boat services between Siem Reap and Battambang, and Tonlé Sap Lake is also navigable year-round, although only by smaller boats between March and July.

Traditionally the most popular boat services with foreigners are those that run between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The express services do the trip in as little as five hours, but the boats between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are horrendously overcrowded and foreigners are charged almost twice the price of Khmers for the ‘privilege’ of sitting on the roof. It is not the most interesting boat journey in Cambodia, as Tonlé Sap Lake is like a vast sea, offering little scenery. It’s much smarter to take a bus on the new road instead.

The small boat between Siem Reap and Battambang is more rewarding, as the river scenery is truly memorable, but it can take forever. Whichever fast-boat journey takes your fancy, you may well end up on the roof so remember to use sun block and wear a head covering.

There are now longtail rocket boats operating on northern stretches of the Mekong between Stung Treng and the Lao border. These are super fast, but are super dangerous if overcrowded or travelling after dark. Never risk departing late if it means travelling at night. Many travellers use the fast boat between Sihanoukville and Krong Koh Kong to travel between Thailand and Cambodia.

Hitch-hiking

Hitching is never entirely safe in any country, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and let someone know where they are planning to go. Hitching with truck drivers is a possibility, but it is very uncomfortable and should be considered extremely unsafe for lone women. Expect to pay for the ride.

Bus travel

The range of road transport is extensive in Cambodia. On sealed roads, large air-conditioned buses are the best choice. Elsewhere in the country, a pick-up truck, share taxi or minibus is the way to go. Bus services have come on in leaps and bounds in the last few years and the situation is getting even better as more roads are upgraded. The services used most regularly by foreigners are those from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang, Sihanoukville, Kompong Cham and Kratie, and the tourist buses from Siem Reap to Poipet.

There is a clean and comfortable bus service to towns and villages in the vicinity of Phnom Penh, such as Udong and Phnom Chisor. Operated by Phnom Penh Sorya Transport, these services are very cheap and English-speaking staff can direct you onto the right bus.

Minibuses serve most provincial routes, but are not widely used by Western visitors. They are very cheap, but often uncomfortably overcrowded and driven by maniacs, like the meanest of matatus (minibus taxis) in East Africa. Only really consider them if there is no alternative.

Car & motorcycles

Car and motorcycle rental are comparatively cheap in Cambodia and many visitors rent a car or motorcycle for greater flexibility to visit out-of-the-way places and to stop when and where they choose. Almost all car rental in Cambodia includes a driver, which is good news given the abysmal state of many roads and the prominence of the psychopathic driver gene among many Cambodian road users.

Work

Jobs are available throughout Cambodia, but apart from English teaching or helping out in guesthouses, bars or restaurants, most are for professionals and are arranged in advance. There is a lot of teaching work available for English-language speakers, although the salary is directly linked to experience. Anyone with an English-language teaching certificate can earn considerably more than those with no qualifications.

For information about work opportunities with NGOs call into the CCC, which has a notice board for positions vacant and may also be able to give advice on where to look. If you are thinking of apply­ing for work with NGOs, you should bring copies of your education certificates and work references. However, most of the jobs available are likely to be on a voluntary basis, as most recruiting for specialised pos­itions is done in home countries or through international organisations.

Other places to look for work include the classifieds sections of the Phnom Penh Post and the Cambodia Daily, and on the notice boards at guesthouses and restaurants in Phnom Penh. Do not expect to make a lot of money working in Cambodia, but if you want to learn more about the country and help the locals improve their standard of living, it can be a very worthwhile experience.

Business hours

Most Cambodians get up very early and it is not unusual to see people out and about exercising at 5.30am if you are heading home – ahem, sorry, getting up – at that time. Government offices, which are open from Monday to Friday and Saturday mornings, theoretically begin the working day at 7.30am, break for a siesta from 11.30am to 2pm, and end the day at 5pm. However, it is a safe bet that few people will be around early in the morning or after 4pm, as their real income is earned elsewhere.

Banking hours vary slightly according to the bank, but most keep core hours of 8am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday, plus Saturday morning. Attractions such as museums are normally open seven days a week and these days staff have had their arms twisted to stay open through lunch.

Local restaurants are generally open from about 6.30am until 9pm and international restaurants until a little later. Local restaurants may stay open throughout, while international restaurants sometimes close between sittings. Many bars are open all day, but some open only for the night shift, especially if they don’t serve food.

Local markets operate seven days a week and usually open and close with the sun, running from 6.30am to 5.30pm. Markets shut up shop for a few days during the major holidays of Chaul Chnam Khmer (Khmer New Year), P’chum Ben (Festival of the Dead) and Chaul Chnam Chen (Chinese New Year). Shops tend to open from about 8am until 6pm, sometimes later.

History

Treatment of the Khmer Rouge was one of the sore points of the uneasy coalition of Prince Ranariddh’s National United Front and Hun Sen’s Cambodian People’s Party. In July 1997, Hun Sen followed up accusations that Ranarridh was absorbing Khmer Rouge defectors into his ranks by setting soldiers against royalist troops. A weekend of heavy fighting and looting in Phnom Penh ensued and when the dust settled, Hun Sen assumed sole leadership of Cambodia. Elections in mid-98 returned Hun Sen to this position, with much grumbling from opposition candidates about dodgy electoral practices.

In early 1998, Khmer Rouge hardliner General Ta Mok fled to the hills with a few hundred loyalists, taking an ailing Pol Pot as prisoner. Pol Pot’s death in April 1998 from an apparent heart attack was greeted with anger (that he was never brought to trial) and scepticism (he has been reported dead many times before). Khmer Rouge loyalists still hold positions of power in Cambodia but the organisation is more or less fatally splintered. Whether the death of one of the century’s great tyrants will engender a healing process is yet to be seen.

Culture

Khmer architecture reached its zenith during the Angkorian era (seen in Angkor Wat and the structures of Angkor Thom). Many fine examples of Khmer sculpture can be found in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Cambodia’s classical dance is highly stylised and usually accompanied by an orchestra or choral narration.

Theravada Buddhism is the dominant religion. Khmer is Cambodia’s official language and can often prove difficult for foreigners. For over a century, the second language of choice was French, which is still spoken by many people who grew up before the 1970s. English has recently surged in popularity.

Accommodation in Cambodia varies greatly from basic guesthouses to superb luxury resorts, charming, locally-run boutique properties and functional provincial hotels. With new hotels opening all the time, we are able to recommend a variety of options to suit all tastes and budgets. Accommodation in some of the remote areas is more limited, but you can still find beautiful swimming pools and comfortable beds in some of the most surprising locations.

Every hotel included in a our Cambodia trips and itinerary has been specially selected to ensure all customer needs are met. They range from your standard tourist class properties of 3 stars to the more deluxe four star hotels. All hotels are situated in or near the city centre so that clients can make the most of their free time by strolling through closely located shopping centres, local markets, bars and restaurants. After a long day of sightseeing you can be guaranteed that you will return to a comfortable bed for a good nights rest!

• Angkor: Cambodia’s Wondrous Khmer Temples (Odyssey Illustrated Guide, 5th edition) – Dawn Rooney and Peter Danford.
• Insight Guide Laos and Cambodia (2003 edition) Clare Griffiths.
• First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers – Loung Ung.
• Red Lights and Green Lizards: A Cambodian Adventure- Liz Anderson.
• Temples and Tuk Tuks (Travel in Cambodia) – Lydia Laube.
• Cambodia Now: Life in the Wake of War – Karen J. Coates.
• A Blessing Over Ashes: The Remarkable Odyssey of my Unlikely Brother – Adam Fifield.
• A History of Cambodia – David Chandler.
• Brother Enemy – Nayan Chanda.
• Mekong – Milton Osbourne.
• Highways to a War – Christopher Koch.
• A Dragon Apparent – Norman Lewis.
• River of Time – Jon Swain.
• Brother Number One: A Political Biography of Pol Pot – David Chandler.